Yes! And the best part about estimates is that there is no obligation, and you don't even have to be home. We will simply measure your lawn and leave the information for you on the front door. Then, when you are ready to get started with your lawn service, or if you have any questions, simply call our office.
What Does it Cost?
We base your price on the square footage of your lawn.
Do I need to sign a Contract?
There are no contracts, however, the lawn service does continue from season-to-season and year-to-year. You are free to cancel at any time. But if you stay on our program, you will see the best results. If you need to skip an application or cancel the service, YOU MUST CALL THE OFFICE. If we are out of the office or on another line, you can leave a message on our "voice-mail" and we will call you back.
Are the applications safe for my children and pets?
Yes! However, we do recommend that everyone (pets included) stay off the lawn until the liquid applications dry. This usually takes about 30 minutes or so, depending on the weather. This is just a precaution in case there is something that may cause an allergy. Believe it or not, pets may also have an allergy. We understand you may have pets that do not have any other place to go while the application is being done and that's fine, we can work around friendly pets without a problem.
Do I have to be home when you come to my house?
Not at all! We will do the application, leave a sign in the yard and put your invoice and watering instructions on the front door. If you have any questions, please feel free to contact the office prior to your application, or leave a note for our technician and they will address any concerns you may have.
How many times a year do you come to my house?
Our lawn maintenance program calls for seven applications a year. Our applications are done approximately 6 to 8 weeks apart, depending on weather conditions. When you first start the program, your first couple of applications may be a little closer together, in order to get you on the same schedule with your neighborhood.
Can you treat weeds in flower beds?
Yes! This is an additional program that we can provide twice a year, once in the Spring and once in the Fall. These are pre-emergent applications. The chemicals we use are safe for flowers and shrubs.
What are free service calls?
When you are on our 7-application lawn program, your service calls are free.* If you have problem areas in your lawn, we'll come out, evaluate the lawn and treat the problem areas as needed at no charge.*
*SKIPPING APPLICATIONS WILL VOID FREE SERVICE CALLS
How long before I see results?
It depends on the shape your yard is in to begin with. Some customers start with a lawn that has never been cared for, while others have new sod that looks great; with each application, you'll see some difference, but if your yard is thin and full of weeds, it make take a growing season or two to get it looking like a showplace.
I Just Got My Application and...
What if it rains right after?
All applications must be watered in, so consider yourself lucky that you may not have to water as much, if we get enough rain. Rain is a natural aid in getting the nutrients into the lawn's root system.
When can I mow and water?
It's a good idea to mow before your application, but we understand if you cannot, in that case, you should water in the products and wait until the next day to mow. We generally let you know a week in advance when we are going to be out to allow you a couple of days to mow.
Do I have to water before I mow?
If we just did an application, you should water the product in before you mow, so that you are not discarding the products.
When can I let my children and dogs out?
We recommend that you wait until the application dries, usually about 30 minutes depending on weather conditions. This is just a precaution in case a child or dog happens to have a particular allergy.
Why are you doing an application in the winter?
One application we do in the winter months is a pre-emergent application designed to stop a lot of hard to control weeds (like crabgrass) from coming up. The Soil Conditioning application is a Liquid Aeration that reduces soil compaction and improves fertilizer availability.
Why did you do 2 (or 3) applications at once?
When you add additional programs to your lawn care, these applications will overlap your regular lawn care program. Just like your regular program, additional applications such as fire ant control and tree and shrub care must be done at the right time causing more than one application being done at the same time or in the same week. These applications are compatible and can be done at the same time or within a few days of each other so there is no harm done to your lawn.
How often should I mow?
Let your lawn answer that question. Look at your lawn, if the grass is longer than the recommended length, then you should mow. There is no exact answer on how often you should mow, its best determined on an individual lawn basis so as to not remove more than 1/3 of an inch of the blade at one time. Remember to keep blades sharp. Dull blades will cause the grass blade tips to have a brown, torn look.
Do I need a mulching mower?
If you mow often enough that you don’t need to bag your clippings, then there is no major need of a mulching mower.
Why do I need to scalp my lawn in the Spring?
Scalping in the spring is the process of removing the old dormant grass that has protected the soil during the winter months so the warmer weather can begin to warm the ground faster; speeding up the greening process. Scalping should be done only once a year, after all chance of frost has passed.
What should I be concerned about when watering?
Areas near buildings, sidewalks, and driveways dry-out faster because they reflect and radiate more heat and may require additional water.
Runoff may occur on some soils and sloped areas before the soil is adequately moistened. When runoff begins turn off the water then restart it after it has soaked in, continue this cycle until proper moisture levels have been reached.
Infrequent deep watering is preferred to frequent shallow watering because the roots will only grow as deep as its most available water supply. Deeply rooted grass is healthier and has a larger "soil-water bank" to draw moisture from. This will help the grass survive drought and hot weather that rapidly dries out the upper soil layer. The amount of water your lawn requires and actually receives will determine its overall health, beauty and ability to withstand use and drought. One inch a week is the standard water requirement established for most lawns.
There are also varying water requirements for seasonal changes and still more differences brought about because of different soil types. Look at your lawn to determine its water needs. Grass in need of water will have a grey-blue cast to it, rather than a blue-green or green color. Also, foot prints will still appear after a half-hour or more on a lawn in need of water, while on a well watered, lawn foot-print will completely disappear within minutes.
What's the best time to water?
Early in the morning! Watering in the early morning hours takes advantage of the less windy conditions and lower temperatures discourage water evaporation. Generally during the summer from midnight until 10:00 AM. Watering in the late evening encourages fungus and if you water during the middle of the day you loose water to evaporation.
How much should I water?
Your lawn needs on average 1 inch of water per week during the growing season, regardless of whether it is rainfall or regular watering.
Do I need to water in the winter?
Yes! Your lawn needs water year-round, even when it’s dormant. Watering during the winter months encourages insulation of the root system to counteract the damaging effects caused by freezing temperatures. However, if you are averaging one inch of rain per week, there's no need to water.
General Lawn and Landscape Questions...
How should I care for new sod?
Newly installed sod has very important watering needs. Water should be applied immediately after installation, usually within half an hour after it has been laid. Keeping the soil moist to a depth of 3-4 inches for the next 2 weeks will ensure the turf becomes well established and can flourish for years to come. Hot, dry, and windy days will require additional water to counteract the drying effects of the weather.
Starting a lawn care program is often thought to be the best way to maintain the perfect lawn after new sod is laid. This, however, is incorrect. Treating a newly sodded lawn too soon can actually hinder the growth rather than encourage it. Some fertilizers are too strong for a tender root system that has not been fully established. It's best to wait about 3 or 4 weeks before starting a lawn care program, until the roots have firmly taken hold of the soil and are actively growing.
Why are there brown spots in my lawn?
Brown spots indicate many different things, for example, if we just came out and did an application, there may be some temporary browning where we spot sprayed some existing weeds. This is a temporary side effect of spraying weeds in some kinds of grass, remember, this is temporary.
Continuing your good watering and mowing practices will help the surrounding grass recover from this effect. Unfortunately, there is no other way to get rid of stubborn weeds.
When the weather turns hot (generally above 85 degrees) and dry, chinch bugs can attack your lawn. Chinch bugs are hard to see and will generally attack drought stressed areas of your lawn usually close to driveways or sidewalks where there is little or no shade. In these stressed areas even lawn mower tracks will be attacked and turn brown. If your lawn does not respond to additional watering of those areas, you may have chinch bugs; call our office for a diagnosis.
Another reason for brown spots is improper mowing or dull blades. If you have gouges in the grass, it may have been scalped by mistake, added water and careful mowing in those areas in the future will reduce this unsightly mistake.
Dogs urinating in the same place can cause brown spots because their urine is high in nitrogen. If this is the scenario, there may be a green ring around the brown spot; this is a tale-tale sign of over urination in one area. The only way to prevent this is to train your pet to urinate in a specific area out of sight of the main portion of the grass. To counteract these effects, add additional water to these areas.
Lack of water is another reason for brown spots. Check the coverage of your sprinkler system, there may be a sprinkler head that has been knocked out of alignment, a simple correction should fix the problem. If you don't have an in-ground sprinkler system, make sure your watering device is adequately watering all areas.
If you notice any unusual discolorations (might even be yellow or orange or grey) in your lawn, please give us a call. Your lawn tech or a field manager will be happy to come out and diagnose the problem and recommend a treatment.
Why does my neighbor's lawn look better/greener than mine?
There are many reasons why your neighbor's lawn may be greener than yours. Early in the spring, it may be that the neighbor's lawn is fescue or rye, which is green when your lawn is dormant. Or it may be that his lawn is full of weeds and he already has to mow, which can give the appearance of looking better from a distance. Of course, if it's the summer, we certainly can't have a neighbor's lawn greener than yours! Some times when we investigate we usually find one of the following:
Our customer is letting his lawn get too high, and then mowing off more than half the height at once or just mowing too short. This will result in a brown lawn after mowing.
Our customer is not watering as much as his neighbor is.
Our customer's lawn mower blades are very dull, resulting in the grass getting torn instead of cut. This will result in a brown lawn after mowing.
Or maybe your lawn is just not responding well to your last fertilizer application for some reason and needs a supplemental boost of fertilizer! Just give us a call, and we'll come out at no charge. We will also check the PH and determine if your lawn may need lime.
Why is my lawn thin?
The main reasons for a thin lawn are improper mowing, lack of fertilizer, too much shade, lack of over-seeding (for cool season grass like fescue,) or serious compaction.
Improper mowing — that is, letting it get too high and mowing too infrequently — will contribute to your lawn thinning out. Mow frequently enough so that you don't have to bag the clippings will help keep your lawn thick and lush.
Not fertilizing during the summer will also thin out your lawn, because without it the grass is lacks the proper nutrients. Many people believe that fertilizing will create more work because they will have to mow more. While this may be true, the secret to a beautiful lawn is feeding the lawn so it healthy and strong, which in turn requires a little more mowing which is required to keep the lawn lush and weed free.
If you have grass that requires a lot of sun light and you have trees for shade, there is bound to be some conflict. Since shade trees reduce the amount of light under the canopy, the grass below suffers. There is no amount of fertilizer or water than can change this dilemma, the only things you can do is trim back and thin out branches of the tree or use a more shade tolerant grass. If you already have shade grass in the shade areas, and it's getting thin, try to use the area as a flower bed, ground cover or a mulch bed.
If you have paths in your lawn from either a pet or a frequent short cut, the soil below is more than likely seriously compacted. When this happens, the grass roots are not able to penetrate the tight soil, thus creating bare patches. Liquid aeration may be the answer to your problem. Call the office to schedule yours today!
When should I prune my trees and shrubs?
Some thing to remember...do NOT prune trees and shrubs when the leaves are forming or falling. Spring and Summer bloomers follow distinct rules...Spring bloomers flower from the old wood from the previous season, while Summer bloomers flower from new wood from the same season. For heavy flowering of spring bloomers, prune back plants after the flowers have wilted. For summer bloomers, prune in late winter for heavy flowering.
Evergreen trees like spruce or pine, which usually don't require much pruning, should be trimmed in the late winter or early spring just before the start of their growing season.
If at all possible, avoid pruning in the fall. Wait until late winter when the plant is dormant and temperatures are just above freezing to do heavy pruning.
Do NOT top off your trees and shrubs, topping results in stubs due to the main lead branch and other beneficial branches being removed. Topping leads to extremely disfigured trees which are more susceptible to wind damage because of the creation of weak limbs and unsightly water sprouts.
These are just helpful tips, some trees and shrubs require different care. Check with your nursery if you have any questions about tree or shrub pruning.
When should I plant trees and shrubs?
It's not a matter of when you should, its more like when you shouldn't. Never plant trees or shrubs when they are stressed, they will have a harder time getting established, especially during periods of drought or during the heat of the summer.
Depending on what you're looking for; trees and shrubs getting established early, or finding a great bargain, there are 2 key times to make your purchases. Purchasing in the spring will encourage quicker establishment and purchasing in the fall is when the older plants are available usually at a discounted price. As long as the ground is not frozen, planting in the winter is fine.
When planting a new tree or shrub make sure all the material protecting the roots have been removed and the hole is dug twice as large as the root ball. Ensuring that there is no material left on the root ball allows that the root system to be able to branch out and go into the surrounding soil. Some newly planted trees and shrubs have issues related back to their original planting where the material has not been removed.
What happens when you skip a treatment?
If you skip applications, especially weed treatments, it makes it very difficult for your lawn specialist to provide satisfaction guaranteed. Please understand that you might think you are saving money by skipping an application, but the truth is that ignoring your lawn is like neglecting a very expensive investment. Your lawn is less expensive to maintain than to replace.
Believe it or Not...we actually have people who call and cancel their service because their yard looks so good. "They had such a problem two years ago and now they do not have a single weed. Thanks a lot Perm O Green, but we will take it from here." Customer Guess What?? Next Spring the phone rings and that customer says, "I do not know what happened to my lawn, I have more weeds than ever..." Customer It is much easier to not skip than to start over. Also, skipping applications voids "Free Service Calls".
Payment and Billing Questions...
How do I pay my bill?
Your technician will either mail, or leave you an invoice, that will include your watering instructions, from there you can:
Mail in a check or credit card payment after each application
Prepay for the entire year and get a discount
Call our office with your credit card #
Set up automatic credit card billing for hassle-free payment
What credits cards do you take?
Visa, MasterCard and Discover
Is there a discount for paying for the year?
By prepaying for the year’s services, you will save 10%. *Additional services added throughout the year may not be eligible for this discount.